Bitter Springs: Mataranka

Mataranka was an important military base for supplies and many troops were based here in the war. It was also the place where the famous book “We of the Never Never” was based. Jeannie Gunn, the author, was one of the first outback pioneer women who lived on Elsey Station which is now Elsey National Park.
Mataranka is renowned for its hot springs, Rainbow Springs which were made into a cemented pool by the troops when they were here, and Bitter Springs which is very natural and this one is our favourite. Bitter Springs is a flowing stream of hot water and is surrounded by palms and bulrushes. It is so clear and blue you can see the bottom. Birds are everywhere as well as lots of tiny bright blue dragonflies. It’s so relaxing to sit and chat in the pool although you do have to keep moving (great exercise) to stop yourself from floating down the stream. However a delightful thing to do is to let yourself gently drift down so you can observe the palms and greenery and listen to the birds.

There are some steps further downstream where you can get out and walk back to the main swimming area. It was also great fun to snorkel down the stream and see the amazing underwater world here. There are only a few little fish and the odd turtle as the sulphur content of the water is too strong for them. However there are lots of logs and old palm fronds that are covered in a bright green slime as well as some light green leafy underwater plants and these are all waving in the current. It is magic.
We stayed in a caravan park right near Bitter Springs (which is in the National Park) I would ride my bike down and spend hours just chatting, floating or snorkelling. It is one of my favourite places. We stayed an extra day here as we liked it so much. The day we were leaving I went down early in the morning and the steam was rising off the water. What an amazing scene!!


We rode our bikes into town twice to buy a famous Mataranka pie which are ENORMOUS (they had run out the first day) – about 6 cms high packed with delicious meat. We shared one and even that was nearly too much. I also had a look at the museum which had lots of interesting war memorabilia as well as info on Elsey Station and the early pioneering days.
We also went to the Mataranka Homestead where the other hot springs are as well as a large caravan park. They have a replica of the original Elsey homestead here which was used in making the film, We of the Never Never. We walked down through a palm grove to Rainbow Springs and you can also further down to the Roper River where some people were swimming even though there are freshwater crocs and the chance of a salty because all the recent rain can cause them to be washed down.
We were now enjoying warm days so shorts and t-shirts are the order of the day although the nights are still coolish.



Pick out out van!(Blue spare wheel)

An army of the pointed red pinnacles (anthills) were guarding our caravan park