Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Broken Hill, Menindee Lakes to Wentworth

We waved the others on their way and settled down for some R & R and do the housework – washing, cleaning the van. Oh dear this life is so hard!! I had a puncture on my bike so we had to go and find a replacement tube. Luckily Big W had what we needed and I found one that has gel in it so won’t go flat. The tyres on our bikes are very thin. Brian fixed it and we cycled down to the city to do a bit more site seeing and took some good photos of some of the old heritage buildings.
In the afternoon I went to visit Pro Hart’s gallery. It was full of his paintings and sculptures and there was a very interesting recorded interview with him. It was well worth the visit. I was really excited to see a desert pea in his garden. They are huge and a beautiful flower..
The next day we headed south to Menindee Lakes. Six months ago these lakes were dry. Menindee Lake is three times bigger that than Sydney Harbour so it is huge. There is a series of four lakes that all feed into one another and the water is very controlled. At the moment they are taking the water from on lake to the other and feeding the water into the Darling in preparation for the big lot of water coming down from Bourke. The lakes provide great recreation (fishing yabbying, skiing and sailing) for the people of Broken Hill. We free camped by the side of Pamamaroo Lake and spent two great days relaxing, reading, going for walks and just doing nothing. We were treated to a magnificent sunset made more impressive by the outlines of the dead trees silhouetted by the reddening sky. Brian used his paint tin fire to boil the kettle and provide some warmth. You just collect twigs and keep the fire going by continually feeding it.
We camped not far the site of Bourke and Wills base camp on the Darling River from where they set of on their fateful expedition to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The trees here are very old and huge but the poor old Darling is very depleted.
On Wed 28th we went to Menindee on our way to Wentworth. Menindee was a busy port for the paddle steams in their hey day taking away wool from the vast stations in the area but now it is a dying town. There is one small grocery store and we paid $9 for a loaf of bread and 2 litres of milk!!
After asking about the state of the road to Pooncarie we decided to take the chance as it is about 100ks of dirt but saved us going back to Broken Hill. The road was fine and we found a fantastic coffee shop right near the old wharf at Pooncarie where they had the best hamburgers.
From Broken Hill the landscape is very bare as they chopped all the trees for about 80ks to use in the mines. Around Menindee they have used the water to plant heaps of grape vines but otherwise the countryside is flat with very small stunted salt bushes and not much else. As you head south it gradually becomes undulating with more vegetation and then flattens out until you get to cultivated land. Even though you travel long distances without seeing anything much the vegetation is fascinating as it is continually changing.
We arrived in Wentworth to find a delightful little town on the junction of the Darling and the Murray and the caravan park is right on the Darling River. Here is it a wide graceful river lined with the huge river gums. You can tell that some of these trees are just so old. Wentworth was a very important port in years gone by. The town is surrounded by water and the gardens are beautiful especially the roses that are splashing their colours down the centre of the wide streets and making a colourful display in so many house gardens.
We went to see the lookout where the Darling meets the Murray. It’s fascinating as the water in the Darling is muddy (from its clay base) and the water in the Murray is green (a sand base) and you can see this distinctly.
This morning we went for a ride on the bikes –and guess what!! I got another puncture this time in my back tyre- another thorn. As there is no bike shop here we went over to Mildura to get another tube. Mildura is a large bustling town with all the usual shops you find everywhere. We found a heavy duty tube so hope that is OK. Think I will abstain from riding in this town. The road from Wentworth to Mildura follows the Murray and there are acres and acres and acres of grapes (They grow a lot of sultanas here) as well as oranges.
We saw a paddle steamer going down the river and there are lots and lots of house boats for hire. That sounds like fun. It was good to see Mildura but we were glad to get back to the peace and quiet of Wentworth and it peaceful river.

I have been having trouble getting the photos onto the blog in the right place so I’m going to try to do a separate post of photos after each post so here goes. If you click on the photos they will come up full size and you will see more detail.

Brian's paint tin fire









Sunset at our camp at Pamamaroo Lake













The Darling river near Burke and Wills base camp









Desert pea - amazing flower











Pro Hart Rolls Royce












The Palace Hotel has the longest verandah in NSW. Broken Hill had 60 hotels in its hey-day

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Broken Hill 2nd day

We decided on a later start and our first port of call was Bells Milk Bar to sample their delicious “spiders” – (soft drink with a large dob of ice-cream on the top for those too young to remember.) We were transported back to the fifties with the old rounded counters, chequered lino floor and genuine milkshakes and spiders made with their own home made syrups and soda water. What a treat!!

We then headed out to Silverton about 23ks out of BH where a handful of buildings dot the landscape. They are the remnants of a mining town that migrated to Broken Hill once the mines there started to boom. They even dismantled their houses and took them to BH. There are some amazing heritage buildings including the famous Silverton Hotel which has appeared in over 140 films and commercials, including Bryan Brown's Dirty Deeds, Mad Max II, Priscilla, Queen of the Desert and A Town like Alice. The movie makers love it here because of the clear air, the open spaces and the dramatic colours.

There is an old church, a school house all set up, an old miners hut, a couple of galleries and a café and an original goal which were all part of the early

settlement where the miners flocked to dig out the silver. The goal was set up as a really interesting museum with each cell housed different category of memorabilia. A fascinating character we came across runs a Coin Carvery in an old tin shed. He cuts the inside of a penny with a very fine hack saw and then coats then with gold to make a charming necklace. He also does the same with sixpences.

After a quick picnic lunch at Penrose Park which is a caravan park and recreational area we headed out to Mundi Mundi lookout where you can view the vast plains dotted with grey hues of the salt bush plus green brown and yellow. It is a real outback scene.

A few miles further on we saw the reservoir which is a large expanse of water which helps with Broken Hill’s water supply.

We headed back to camp rather tired as it was a hot day and the flies where bothersome. Thank goodness for fly nets!!

We all dined together as the others were continuing in their journey in the morning.

Broken Hill 1st day

Thursday 22nd April 2010, We all set off to explore Broken Hill. Our first stop, White’s mine museum where Kevin, an ex-miner has built a replica of a mine to give you the feeling of being underground and what is was like in the early days. It was dark inside and lit with a candle. He is passionate about preserving the history of mining in BH and through a video with lots of old footage, demonstrations of the old equipment and explaining his excellent model showed us how mining has progressed from horse drawn buckets to almost computer controlled mining. He explained the dangers the miners were exposed to because of the poor conditions. Over 450 miners died of lead poisoning, accidents and lung complaints caused by the dust and these conditions continued from 1883 until the early 1900’s when there was a massive 18 month strike and conditions and safety were finally improved. This tour was a fascinating experience and well worth a visit.
Our next stop was Jack Absalom’s gallery. He is a well known artist and TV presenter and paints the most amazing outback pictures. To our delight Jack appeared and we all had our photos taken with him in front of his paintings

Next a coffee shop on top of the mine, overlooking the town. There was a lot of old mining equipment displayed outside which Brian loved.


A highlight for me was The Big Picture by a local artist, Peter Anderson, which is the world’s largest painting on canvas (12metres x 100 metres) covering a room in a curve of 190 degrees depicting a number of landscape scenes around the area. The centre timber area is designed to resemble a lookout and you actually feel like you are walking into the scene before you and the three D effect the artist has created is very clever. The room has been landscaped with shrubs and animals, aboriginal artefacts and rocks to depict the area.
This is an amazing exhibit. It is very creative and awesome to see.

Our last excursion for the day is to see The Living Desert & Sculptures 8kms out of town at sunset. We drove out and to visit an environmental and nature walk then drove up a rocky outcrop to the top of a hill where before us an array of rock sculptures have been built - one sculpture has a round donut on the side and you can line up the hole with the setting sun to obtain an amazing photo. The setting sun shines on the sculptures and create amazing colours of pinks and red on the stone. We all watched the sun go down until the glow of yellow, orange and red disappears and the peace of the outback evening pervades.



Back to the caravan for a quick change and off to the Democratic Social Club know as the Demo for a delicious dinner.
What a busy and successful day.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Wellington to Broken Hill

Setting of early we met up with Geoff and Heather and their crew in Dubbo. When all four vans were ready to roll we headed out on the road towards Cobar via Narromine, a lovely country town and Nyngan where we stopped for lunch after having driven through a swarm of grasshoppers. Lucky we had gauze in front of the radiator, otherwise they clog it up. The countryside is very flat and rather uninteresting although there has been some rain. We had a quick stop in Cobar, a mining town with some interesting buildings and then on to our overnight stop at a free camp called Meadow Glen. The signs of the outback were prevalent-red dirt and flies. We managed to gather some wood and so enjoyed an open fire to cook our evening meal and sit around and chat and enjoy the starry night. We found out that Broken Hill is in a fruit fly free zone and fruit and tomatoes are not allowed in all had to be eaten this meal. We had tomatoes for tea and for breakfast.
We decided on an early start so we could get to Broken Hill in time to do some sightseeing. The roads are very straight and the vegetation is stunted then turns into salt bush and mulga and as you get towards Broken Hill there are very few trees. The small rounded greyish salt bush and the green of some other bushes contrasts against the red dirt. The recent rains have provided an extra green tinge. I think it is very unusual to see so much greenery in this area which is normally very arid.

We passed through Wilcannia which was once a thriving port on the river Darling where the paddle steams took the wool to Adelaide. Now is a derelict town where all the shops are boarded up. There is a mainly an Aboriginal population here and they have very little hope. There was a beautiful sandstone church built in 1860’s but is sad to see a broken window and locked doors.
As you approach BH you are required to “dump” your fruit. It’s quite funny to see those who are unprepared, trying to eat all their fruit rather the throw it out.
As you come into Broken Hill you see the mine on the rocky hill and the town is built around it. I had no idea it was such a delightful place with lots to see and do, lots of old magnificent buildings and lots of art galleries and museums and a very, very interesting history.
That night we all planned the activities for the next day over dinner.

Monday, April 19, 2010

TROUBLE

We had a few hiccups with some problems with the van. Firstly, we bought a new flat hose to attach to the water taps to get water into the van. The first time we used it the water tasted foul and no matter how much we flushed it the taste remained. Then our neighbour told us you have to buy food grade hose which was pretty expensive in a country town.
Then as we were leaving Moree the jockey wheel seized up. This is a wheel on a stick which holds the caravan level when you are on a site and you can adjust the level by winding it up or down. So we had to stop at Dubbo to buy a new one.
Then when we arrived in Wellington we found there was a bolt missing from one of the stabiliser stands and also one of the arms that hold the awning out was missing. We found we could only buy these in pairs and was going to cost us $500 and we only needed one.
Luckily cousin Geoff came to the rescue and found a place in Sydney that sold them individually. They were coming through Wellington on Monday so they kindly organised to pick it up in Sydney and bring it to us on their way through. What champions!! When the part arrived the boys fitted it in about 5 minutes and hey presto! We were ready to continue our journey and join their convoy.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

To Moree and Wellington:

We headed off early in the morning so we would be able to have all day at the hot mineral springs in the caravan park at Moree. There are 5 pools here varying from 27 to 39 degrees. The mineral springs are renowned for their therapeutic benefits and people come from everywhere to relieve their aches and pains. My sore leg feel much better now. It is great to sit in the hot pools and chat about where you have been as well as pick up tips on where to go and what to see. Some folks stay for a day and others are there for months.
The next day we headed to Coonabarabran (my home territory) via Narrabri which is cotton country. You see lots of cotton lining the roadside. We even saw a cotton crop and it looked like it was covered with soft fluffy snow. It was another beautiful day and the mountains were blue and clear.
We had lunch in Coona with Gwen, Athol and Bron, old family friends. It was great to catch up and Gwen is an excellent cook so we enjoyed a delicious lunch.
We then forged on to Wellington. The countryside around here is gently undulating and picturesque. Wellington is a quiet country town with wide streets and friendly people. The caravan park is right on the Macquarie River and it’s very relaxing to sit and contemplate the peaceful scene. We love it here.

We are here to spend some time with Auntie Gwen, now 94. We did some chores for her and then we all had a picnic in the large shady park. In the afternoon we explored the town on our folding bikes. I’m so pleased we bought these nifty little machines. Tomorrow we are having a bbq lunch in caravan park which Gwen will enjoy and Tuesday we head to Dubbo to connect with my cousins and their convoy where the 4 vans will set off for Broken Hill.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Map of first stage


View Larger Map

Here is a map of our route for the first stage. We are joining up with Geoff and Heather (cousin) and two other couples at Dubbo and will travel in convoy to Broken Hill with an overnight stop out of Cobar. I believe there has been lots of rain at Broken Hill so there should be lots of wildlife and new growth.

I am having trouble making the map to size so you have to click on view larger map to see the full route.

Friday, April 16, 2010

First Night on Road

First Night Out
14/04/2010
After a busy morning finalising last minute details, trying to cut down on the items included but wanting to take enough “stuff” to last us eight or nine months, final cleaning and checking, we were ready to leave by 12 pm.
We breathed a sigh of relief as we manoeuvred the caravan down the narrow track of Brian’s hill. It was exciting to be on the road again!!
Our route took us along the Cunningham Highway to Warwick. The countryside from Boonah was so green after the recent rain that you would think you were in England. It was a magnificent clear day and the mountains around here were fresh and crisp against the clear blue sky. I always enjoy the drive up Cunningham’s Gap with its lush rainforest vegetation and then the decent onto the fertile plains of the Darling Downs. What a contrast since our last visit which was in the midst of the drought.
We passed through Warwick and planned to stay at a free camp near Inglewood. However we missed the turn off and ended up staying at the Oman-ama Store. What a fascinating store in the middle of nowhere – full of bric-a-brac, from cane toad skins to porcelain dolls, as well as Elvis memorabilia. There was a large statue of Elvis outside and an Elvis coat inside that was definitely not for sale.

We found a grassy patch overlooking the cows in the paddock. You forget how amazing our night sky is and how extensive the Milky Way is when it is disguised by the city lights.
We even had a mini fire. On a previous trip Brian saw an “old codger “ who had used a burnt out paint tin filled with twigs to boil the kettle. Of course Brian had to make one so we tried it out with great success.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Getting Ready

With great excitement and a little trepidation we are preparing for our departure on an amazing adventure around Australia which will take us to see some intriguing and beautiful places in this wonderful land. This will take till at least to the end of this year.
It is a great challenge to pack enough clothes to cater for all seasons and yet not add too much weight to the caravan so lots of decisions have to be made.
We have a loose plan and will be heading west to Moree where there are hot mineral baths in the caravan park that are said to help iron out all the aches and pains and will be much appreciated.
From there we travel to Wellington (NSW) to visit my 94 yr old aunt for several days and also R & R after busy weeks of preparation. We will have lunch with a family friend in Coonabarabran (my old home town) on the way through.
From Wellington we join a convoy of 3 friends in their vans to head through the vast expanses of the outback to Broken Hill and experience all it history