Friday, July 30, 2010

Port Hedland to Karajini National Park:

We were so happy that the car was finally back to normal and to be on our way. However as we didn't leave until about 1.30 and Brian was fairly tired we decided to stay in a roadside parking area. Not long after we stopped another caravan stopped so it was good we had some company. We chatted with them and had drinks in their van.
The countryside was flat and uninteresting with very few trees until we came into the iron ore country. Here the rocks are deep irony red and there is lots of gibber (small stones). There were also rocky outcrops, green spinifex and occasionally some stands of snappy gums which are white twisted gums that look magnificent. As we neared Karjini we travelled through a pass of rich red cliffs which was a taste of what was to come.
Karajini is known as one of the most beautiful national parks in Australia full of deep rich red gorges cutting through the surrounding hills We thought we had experienced red dirt before in Broome but that was nothing to what we experienced here.Definitely no shoes inside and as there is little grass except spinifex, the dirt gets everywhere. There has been very little rain here and in Feb there was fire started by a lightning strike so a lot of the countryside still hasn't recovered.
We camped at Dales Gorge and had drinks with our neighbours that evening.
The next day we went on the rim walk which takes you along the top of the gorge and then down to the Fortescue Falls and to the Fern Pool. We marvelled at the deep gorges with their towering cliffs. These are made up of fine layers of rocks with reds black and grey making marvellous patterns. Down in the gorge you see lots of very tall paper barks as they stretch up towards the light. At the end of the rim walk we descended down some very steep steps to the Fortiscue Falls which tumble down the stepped drop into a beautiful green pool.
The water is very clear but appears a deep greeny blue pool which is surrounded by reeds and ferns.
Because the rocks are in layers there are lots of flat areas to sit and absorb the scenery. We then went a short distance through some huge old paper barks to the Fern Pool aptly named because of all the ferns cascading down the dripping rocks. I braved the very cold water for a refreshing swim.

After some drinks with our neighbours again we retreated to the van as it was a very cold night. We finally had to put the doona on.
The next day we went for a drive on a corrugated dusty road to view the other end of the park and some more magnificent gorges. The drive through the park across the undulating hills dotted with twisted white snappy gums, tufts of spinefex and dark red anthill mounds, with blue distant hills, was very inspiring.
We arrived at Weano Gorge Lookout
which looks down and down to a very deep gorge = over 100metres deep. It’s amazing to think that this is carved out by water. It was so deep and so red.
Then we went to Joffe Falls and Gorge. Once again there was a great lookout where you can look back at the falls. As the rocks are all layered the falls cascade down in steps. We saw some people had found their way down the “steps” to take photos down the gorge. The pool at the bottom of the falls had some flat rocks covered in bright green slime and looked incredible from the lookout.

Further along the road we came to Knox Gorge.
This was a very steep climb or should I say clamour down and down on a rather rocky and gravelly path. Sometimes I had to sit down negotiate the next step successfully- consequently some very dirty shorts.
We were rewarded by a beautiful tranquil pool and a small relaxing waterfall when we reached the bottom not to mention the feeling for straining your neck to look up at the towering cliffs. I went for a quick dip as it was very cold but refreshing as we were quite hot after our descent. We ate our lunch here and just contemplated the beauty. Then it was time to ascend so up and up we went but unfortunately we took a wrong turn and ran out of path. I thought we were lost but we finally found our way out.
We rattled our way back along the corrugated and we stopped at the visitor’s centre where you could have a shower as we were very dusty and dirty. Even though it was only luke warm it was much appreciated.

The next day we had a leisurely breakfast and then started off for a walk along the bottom of Dales Gorge. We had to descend into the gorge down the steep steps near Fortescue Falls and then ease our way past on a narrow ledge to cross over the creek via stepping stones.

There were some magnificent ferns clinging to the side of the cliffs enjoying the moisture from the dripping rocks.
As you walk along the bottom the paper barks love the moisture here and stretch up very tall to try and reach the sunlight.
We came to a beautiful pool with small waterfalls bubbling over the rocks. The water appears to be a deep greeny blue which is contrasted against the rich deep red of the towering gorge walls and the white trucked river gums that reflect in the water. The creek runs all along the gorge and there are many pools like this one with reflections of the gorge in the water. As the rocks are in many many layers the track is often flat rock which is easy to walk on but you do cross the creek many times often having to balance on stepping stones. Is not very deep so if you do misjudge you get wet feet. As we neared the end of the gorge we had to go up and down the layers to find a way to the Circular Pool which is at the end of the gorge. The waterfalls here are coming out of the rocks but in the wet season the waterfall would pour down from the top. I braved the very cold water to enjoy a refreshing swim but I didn't stay in very long. We had our lunch here while watching others plunge into the pool and stand under the waterfall which are apparently quite warm. Time to head back so we went up and down the layers which didn’t seem as strenuous as going in. We were able to climb back out of the gorge at this end by ascending up and up and up many many stone steps until we were on the top. It was a very long way up. From here it was a short walk along flat ground to our campsite. This was a beautiful and enjoyable walk to finish our stay in Karijini.

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